Surfing is an extreme water sport

Extreme Sports : Surfing
Surfing is an extreme water sport

Surfing is a surface water sport. It’s arguably the most common extreme sport and one you’re most familiar with, being seen in movies like Blue Crush and Point Break. Like snowboarding, surfing is a board sport, in which the surfer stands up and rides a surfboard propelled by the forward motion of a wave.

In laymen’s terms, surfing is when you ride waves on a surfboard. 

Surfing is a popular extreme sport. The sport was integral to ancient Polynesian culture and was likely first seen by western eyes when British explorers visited Tahiti in 1767. Surfing was also common in Hawaii when Captain James Cook visited the island (and was killed there) in the late 18th century.

The sport gradually spread to the west coast of North America over the next hundred years, first in California and later to the rest of North America.

Fast forward to now and surfing is widely enjoyed and practiced throughout the United States and Australia, among other places. 

Surfing Styles

If we want to get technical, surfing is the act of riding waves. You don’t technically have to ride a board to be ‘surfing’, nor even do you need to be human (OMG, it’s a surfing dolphin! Double Like!). Going by that definition, body boarding, knee boarding, and even forms or stand-up paddling all fall under the umbrella of this versatile activity.

But I digress. More importantly, say the word ‘surfing’ and you likely think of stand-up surfing. That’s typically done on the ocean. Not always though; surfing needs white water. That can be on the ocean, on a lake (wanna go surfing in TORONTO?) or even river surfing.

Still, you’re reading this because you saw the Point Break remake and want to learn about Life of Water from the Ozaki 8. Am I right? Then let’s stick to traditional stand-up oceanic surfing for the remainder of this post. Going by that logic, we can break surfing down in several styles:

Long-Boarding – This is done on a long surfboard (natch), typically 9-12 feet long. While it sounds intimidating, long boards are actually better for beginners because they offer more stability than shorter surf boards. They’re easier for paddling out into the action. Plus, if you’re a surf ninja like Kelly Slater, you can actually walk to the nose and hang your toes off the edge. Hence the term, ‘Hang Ten’.

Short-Boarding – A short board is a short surfboard. They’re generally between 6’10′”-ish to eight feet long – a feature that makes them more aerodynamic that long surfboards. They’re more difficult to master than their longer bretheren, but they tend to go faster too. Shortboards are ideal for stunts and nifty tricks. While not for beginners, they have advantages that longboards do not.

Paddle-in Surfing – Unless you’re Garrett McNamara, you’ll likely ‘paddle out’ into the surf to wait for your waves. That’s ‘paddle in surfing’. No PhD in Physics required to get how that works.

Tow-In Surfing – Why did I just mention Garrett McNamara? Because he’s a big wave surfer. Think 30+ feet – the kind of waves you can’t just paddle in to and require a ‘tow-in’, most likely with a jet ski.

That’s decades of experience though – and a bit of a death wish. The vast majority of beginner surfers start with a long-board and advance to something a little shorter as they get better. Most surfers paddle in.

Surfing Gear

Surfing does not have to be an expensive sport. You could even make the argument that it’s cheaper than snowboarding – your prerequisite surf gear includes a surf board and a few other pieces so Mother Nature doesn’t get her smack down on your noob surf resume. Essential surf gear includes:

A Surf Board – You’ll probably want to start on a long-board.

Fins – These attach to the bottom end of a surf board for stability.

Fins add stability to a surf board. 

A Leash – This attaches your leg to your board, so you’re quickly reunited on your inevitable spills.

Sex Wax/Traction Pad – Rub this on your board for better grip (and you thought surfers stayed up on their own!).

A Wetsuit – You’ll likely need a wetsuit to go surfing in North America. They’re made of neoprene and allow you to stay longer in cold water.
You’ll also want to think about a rash guard, ear plugs, board shorts, gloves, boots and hoods as you spend more time on your surf board, along with a good travel bag to tote it along on your journeys.

Also, don’t forget about sunscreen, along with a surf poncho (which easily slips on when you climb out of  your wetsuit), a dry/wet bag for your gear, a waterproof watch .

Surf Tips For Beginners

Surfing ain’t all beer and skittles when you’re starting out. Speaking from experience, it’s nothing short of a cluster**k just standing up on a surfboard for the first time. Also speaking from experience, it’s well worth the spills you’ll take. There is nothing on Earth like the feeling of connecting with a wave as it takes you to shore. Granted, it takes time and elbow grease to get there, so think about these surf tips for beginners as you embark on this journey:

Don’t Learn By Yourself – A surf camp is a good way to learn the basics of this demanding sport.

Pick A Good Teacher – Make sure your teacher is experienced and has good reviews.

Start on a Long-Board – These are much easier for learning the fundamentals of surfing. You’ll catch more waves this way too.

Surf a Beginner’s Wave –  Learn surfing on a beginner’s beach – both for wave-riding and the etiquette you’ll learn.

Spend Some Time on Dry Land First – Stretch before you hit the water. Check your board and your leash, and watch the waves. Just as important, watch what the other surfers are doing. This is a good habit to keep, even as you progress as a surfer.

Pace Yourself – Relax friend. I know you’re keen to get going, but you’ll be doing a lot of paddling and risk injury if you take on too much at this stage.

Don’t Get In The Way – This ties into surfing a ‘Beginner’s Wave’. Surf etiquette is very important. Keep your distance from more experienced surfers. You might get a few stink eyes regardless, or even be called a ‘kook’ if you’re on a beach where localism can be an issue. It’s all part of the process. Let this roll off your back and learn from these guys.

Paddle, Paddle, Paddle – You be a VERY sore individual after your first few days on a board. But the ocean waits for no man or woman. If you want the wave, you’ll have to paddle for it.

Get Used to Wiping Out – Success is getting up one more time than you fall. You’ll have a lot of practice with both as you start out. Show me some bruises.

Bend Your Knees – Did you actually STAND UP? Congrats! Now bend your knees – and not your back.

Stay Perpendicular – You will quickly acquaint yourself with the ocean floor if you don’t.

Have Fun! – Above all, enjoy yourself! Phil Edwards once said, “The best surfer out there is the one having the most fun!” (Thanks for that, The Inertia).

Take a Surf Trip – Surfing takes commitment. There’s no better way to learn the sport than go on a road trip and get your butt surfing. I’ve blogged about several surf camps in Australia. In Canada, Long Beach, Vancouver Island is a great place to learn the craft because it’s so wide. A surf trip can help you progress as a surfer.